The spinnaker receiver bag normally lives folded and rolled up out of the way against the heads bulkhead. It slides back and forth along two thin lines secured to the ceiling of the coachroof with omega fastenersWhen it's time to bring down the kite (chute) I undo the little retaining cord and unhank first one side, bring it out and backThen the other one, so the four hanks, one at each corner, hold the bag open. As a refinement, I added two thin battens, one on each side, to stop the bag from collapsing. There is no need for athwartship battens a the separation of the lines keeps the bag open if the slider lines are taut enough.For a larger bag or looser runner lines, additional athwarthsip battens could prove usefulThe crew sitting at the "piano" position slides the bag back to receive the kite as it's handed below, passing under the boom, by the deck hands:The bag is made of mesh rather than sailcloth for better airing.Usually we bring the kite down with halyard and sheets, hoist the foresail (in more haste if rounding a mark!) and then clip halyard and sheets together and pass them back to the deck crewThen we slide the bag with the kite forward, unship the bell, hang the head, clew and tack rings there and sort the package before stuffing it into the sailbag.The receiver bag does double duty sliding it halfway to receive wet foulies. if weather permits, sliding it directly under the coachroof hatch for airing.Also a good place to chuck in mooring lines, fenders, etc. temporarily until they're sorted out properly.I also screwed in four omega fasteners under the forehatch, to move the bag over there to receive foresails when it's time for a sail change. The G1 is a tight fit but the other foresails make it.
Wednesday, July 29, 2020
Spinnaker Receiver Bag
Tuesday, November 21, 2017
As I continue to work on my book on "Faster Cruising" I found myself feeling like the cobbler with no shoes for his children; I don't always follow my own advise, even when I know I'm right. In the book I argue that cruising boats are often lack the rigging and hardware needed to make basic trim adjustments quickly and easily, as though cruisers don't care about efficient sailing or understand the fine points. I care, but I have to admit my cruising cat doesn't have the quick access to fine trim that my performance cat had. I aim to fix that.
Case in point. My PDQ 32 came with a good boom and internal reefing, but the main outhaul was secured to an undersized cleat . To tension it under load, you take the tail to a mast-mounted winch, wrap the line under the cleat, and lift the line sharply when taking the line off the winch in an attempt to minimize slippage before that first wrap is on the cleat. Boy scout at best.
A few days ago I removed the undersized cleat (closely spaced holes on the seam) and I tapped four new holes to secure a proper jammer. Now I can ease the outhaul in a blink and tighten with a winch in control.
The smaller line is for the lazy jacks.
Why a double jammer? The few times I have found myself sailing with three reefs (winds gusting to over 30 knots) I found I needed a better way to winch the clew down. The tack is easily secured with a loop through the reefing tack and under the gooseneck, but there is no internal rigging for a 3rd reef. Thus, I tie a bowline around the boom under the reef clew (like the other reefs), go up through the reefing clew, and back to a snap shackle-equipped snatch block at the main outhaul. From there the reefing line is threaded through this new jammer, allowing a mast mounted winch to tension the clew outhaul.
The only challenge is to remember to thread the reefing clew while hoisting.
[The jammer came courtesy of freecycle--it patiently awaited re-purposing for several years in one of my might-need bins. Whooppee!]
Tuesday, November 14, 2017
Aft Cabin Project
The aft cabin is finished with the exception of a few coats of wax so here are the pics for your perusal.
This is the starboard aft cabin berth that we removed the mattress from. We bought these hardwood drawers from Lowes in a kit for less money than we could have bought the materials.
Tim built a bulkhead across the foot of the berth at the same location as the front of the pantry cupboard. The area behind this bulkhead will store boxed tools like drills and the Dremel. In this picture he's working on installing the wire shelves that will hold our Harbor Freight plastic storage boxes. And yes, we know the shelves are upside down. We needed the lip to keep the boxes from sliding back and forth every time we tack.
The finished project minus the waxed finish. There is a handy shelf on the top for putting the tools currently being used. Below the hinge are the two drawers that hold tools. You can now see the door on the bulkhead to access the boxed tool storage. We left enough room then in front of the drawers for guests to put their duffels.
Here it is with the front panel lowered on the hinge. This makes our workbench which will soon have a quick-mount vice on the corner in the front of the picture. It's hard to see in the picture, but under the workbench are three drawers that we put 100# heavy duty sliders on and locks to hold our heaviest tools.
The drawers have good sliders on them and are stopped by the fiddle.
The cupboard at the foot holds an amazing amount of
Tuesday, October 31, 2017
The Changing of a Hanging Locker
Empty Locker Before
I was frustrated with the inability to store much of anything in the two hanging lockers that I had, and the lack of storage in general on the boat. The shape of a hanging locker doesn’t lend itself to any item of clothing I can think of other than perhaps a miniskirt or skinny jeans, and I doubt that is what most people want to store in them. I decided to convert the locker in my V-berth to shelves instead and see if I could recover some of that space.
The first challenge was that with the curvature of the hull, nothing looked straight. I ended up measuring down from the top and then using a level to draw lines on the walls where the shelf supports would go. Never would I have thought that those lines were straight due to the visual tricks of the curvature and I had to trust the level. Each of those lines were measured for the supports which were cut 1” short of the back wall and angled at 45 degrees due to the slant of the wall. These were predrilled with a small countersink. Once this was done they were coated in polyurethane and screwed onto the side walls where the marks had been made and the holes filled with wood filler.
The second challenge was that the back wall is the hull of the boat and curved not only top to bottom, but from forward to aft. After starting, I discovered that one of my two “straight” walls was not straight. Not being a geometry genius, I had to come up with something that would allow me to cut shelves with as few tries as possible. I took a piece of scrap trim and drilled a hole the size of a pencil at one end. I used a thin piece of balsa wood about 4 inches wide as a temporary shelf, put brown wrapping paper over it and placed it on the supports. I then used my pencil “protractor” to trace the hull shape onto the paper.
Logan Helps With Patterns
Once I had the side measurements and the shape of the back, I cut the shelves. I left a one inch gap at the back for air flow. I used 1/2’ plywood for the shelves – anything thinner wasn’t going to be strong enough and thicker just took up room I could use for storage.
After a few coats of polyurethane, a small fiddle-rail, stained to match the outside of the locker was attached to the end with small brads. The shelves sit on the supports unattached. The fit is snug enough that there’s no movement, but they can still be easily removed. The fiddle-rail keeps containers from sliding into the door when the boat heels.
Cut Shelves With Rail
A relatively large amount of storage was gained by changing a traditional hanging locker to shelving. This solution works well for me since I don’t really have clothes that need to be hanged. I plan to convert the only other hanging locker as well, but will use L brackets instead of wood supports to save some steps and time.
Tuesday, October 17, 2017
I have no excuse for the long pause in posting here, except: life.
|You really want to use a hot knife for this...|
I unrolled the Sunbrella on the dock, laid out the pieces using a chalk line, and cut them out using my brand new, handy-dandy hot knife (you really want to use a hot knife for this work because it seals the edges of the cut, preventing unraveling). The only tricky part of the layout was the placement of the cut outs on the side pieces for the lazy jacks. To get these right, I tied the lazy jack lines to the boom at their design locations, and then stretched a tape measure along the diagonal that the top of the sail cover will make, taking the measurements where the diagonal intersected the jack lines.
Then the depth of the cut outs needed to be established. I wanted them to be just deep enough so that the top of the cut out, which will be the bottom once the stitching to make the batten pocket is completed, would be just above that seam in the finished product. Here's the detail on that: I had determined that a 4.5" circumference would make a batten pocket large enough to accommodate the 3/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe that I was going to use as battens. Adding a 1/2" seam allowance, I struck a "fold-to" line 5" away from the top edge of the side piece. Then I laid out the cut outs so that their ends were 1/2" (seam allowance) + 3/8" (allowing for the edging to be applied to the cut outs) = 7/8" from the fold-to line.
The rest was just sewing. The cover is just shy of 12 feet long, and there is no place inside Eolian to stretch it all the way out. But sewing it over the saloon table worked out OK.
The top zipper would be impossible to operate if its aft end were not stabilized - a short strap there is seized to the topping lift line. The finishing touch is a tiny block seized to the topping lift line just above the zipper seizing - and a 1/8" line loop routed thru the block and tied to the zipper pull allows the zipper to be operated while standing on the deck, not hanging over the rail. Doing this work was interesting... I had to swing the boom out over the dock and stand on top of a ladder to reach the aft end of the boom.
I wasn't sure what I was going to do with closing off the aft end - I think I'll do nothing - the opening is not large enough to bother with.
I still need to make a front panel that wraps around the mast - the zippers that will attach it to the sail cover are already installed on the sail cover.
And I haven't yet cut the lazy jack lines to length - I think I am going to fiddle with them a little more - I want to see how things settle in with some use.
Previous post in this series
Thursday, June 22, 2017
Cockpit Cup Holders
Please welcome new contributor Olly, who sails aboard his family's Beneteau Oceanis 361, s/ v Rhùm; he also sails his own Laser 4.7. (Olly is 15 years old.)
For his first contribution, Olly describes how he solved a perennial boater's problem: Where to safely put the beverage?
One problem I have with boats is that there aren’t many places to put cups in the cockpit when at sea. However with some scrap wood or plastic, thin rope and a spare snap shackle or hook you can easily make a swinging cup holder.
Most cups on boats are stackable however every type of cup will work. First I measured the diameter of two points in the cup. I luckily had access to a laser cutter at school and made a CAD of my cup holder. My design has a hole in the middle for the cup to partially fit through and 4 holes for the rope to go through round the outside of the holder.
However, a laser cutter is not essential, the holder can just as easily be made by cutting a large hole through a piece marine grade wood or plastic and drilling 4 holes around the side.
You need to make two of these rings with different sized holes through the middle so that they sit at different places on the cussp.
Next is the difficult part, you must pass some thin rope through the cup holder and tie stopper knots just below where each of the rings go. Make sure that both the rings are tight around the cup so it does not rattle.
Lastly tie the end of the ropes to a small snap shackle, carabiner or even a hook so that the cup holder can easily be attached to the guardrail.
If your cups are not stackable or you want to use mugs instead place the top ring lower down the cup and don’t cut a hole in the middle of the bottom piece and rest the cup on top of the bottom piece.
These cup holders can be easily placed anywhere where there is a horizontal wire or rope and are perfect for small cockpits because it stops them being cluttered.